Sumo hiatus – Many of you know that I worked in
Japan for three years before I married and moved here to Honolulu. That was 28 years ago! I had a wonderful
time there and immersed myself in the culture, history and language – my wife (girlfriend
at the time) helped a lot – but I also studied Japanese archery and became
fascinated with sumo wrestling on my own. Just this year we started to
subscribe to NGN, Japanese TV, and so now, every two months I am lucky that I
can watch the Grand Sumo Tournament.
The tournaments are held six times a year, for 15
days. During this time, I watch every night from 9 PM to 11 PM – thus, my
hiatus from this blog. No time to watch movies!
This is exciting stuff for me, but borders on ridiculous
boredom for my 23-year-old son. That's okay, I love the ritual and the history
of the sumo, so indulge me while I jot down some of my impressions. If you
watch sumo, indulge me further for any inaccuracies:
The feeling this ancient sport conveys is, to me
anyway, complex and deep. The sumo wrestlers train in stables (clubs) and have
very specific rank. They are professionals – they earn salaries. The Higher
ranked wrestlers are treated like royalty. Even the referees, judges, the hair groomers,
and the men who sweep the ring, have ranks and belong to different clubs or
stables. Sumo is a sport of hierarchy. Sumo is a sport of tradition.
The matches between the 300 to 400 pound gladiators
take place on an elevated platform made of hard packed earth. When it is their
turn to fight, the wrestlers come out from the locker rooms and sit patiently,
on their own private pillow below the ring, waiting for their name to be
called. The caller, usually a tiny little Japanese man, is dressed in a plain
workingman's kimono, but when he comes to the center of the ring, everyone goes
quiet. The audience listens to his powerful voice as he sings the wrestlers'
names.
The wrestlers step onto the platform, into the
circular ring, wearing their traditional sumo belt – this covers about as much
as a Brazilian thong, but it is thick and strong around the belly. Facing each
other, they bow, stomp their feet, and show their outstretched naked muscular
arms – a signal that they are unarmed, but ready to fight. Make no mistake
about it, these are big, strong, muscular men. The wrestlers strut slowly to
their designated corners – the East and the West. They are given purified water
to drink from a fellow wrestler, and from an attendant, a cloth to wipe their
sweat.
After a few moments of contemplation, they grab a
handful of salt from an overflowing basket, face the center of the ring and
toss it high into the air – purifying the ring. Moving to the center, they face
off just a few feet from each other, squat and stare into each other's eyes –
sizing up the competition. Usually the higher ranking of the two will break the
stare, stand up and turn away, like a bull who knows he is superior in every
way. This facing off ritual repeats itself four more times, until finally they
come to the center ready to do battle. The suspense builds. Some audience
members yell words of encouragement to their favorite.
The referee, dwarfed by the tremendous bodies of the
warriors, stands between them dressed formally in a colorful kimono – one that
rivals the most beautiful garments worn by Japanese women. He holds a lacquer
fan at just the right angle, signaling the wrestlers that he is ready to judge
their bout. There's no starting bell ring, gunshot or whistle – the wrestlers
know instinctively when to begin. Suddenly, the wrestlers slam together, like huge
buffalo during the rut.
"Wham!" They slap, push, grab and pull
with all of their considerable weight and might, trying to throw each other on
to the ground or out of the ring. Most matches last only a few seconds. They
sacrifice their entire bodies for the win, often flying off the earth platform
into the audience at the same time. The man who touches the ground first,
loses. The crowd cheers loudly if it has been a good fight. Sometimes when the
highest-ranking wrestlers lose to a lower ranking wrestler, the crowd will jeer
and throw their pillows into the air – either showing their dismay at the loss
or their joy at the upset.
When the match is over, the wrestlers return to
their respective side of the ring. The loser bows and leaves the arena. The referee
announces the winner with a resounding flourish, and often gives him several
envelopes – cash reward for a job well done. The commentators chatter
incessantly, analyzing every detail of the match. There are hundreds of ways to
describe the winning technique. They speculate on injuries and the next day's matchup.
The
sweepers ready the ring. The caller announces the next match. The sumo
continues...